2023 Lawn Thread

Author
Discussion

dudleybloke

18,417 posts

173 months

Saturday 18th March
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I did a heavyish dose of iron to kill the moss then raked it up, and I regularly apply it at lower doses to keep it away and green up the lawn.
I'm waiting another couple of weeks then I'll be changing feed to the higher nitrogen one.

tendown

74 posts

118 months

Saturday 18th March
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I've got a lawn that had a fair bit of moss, I scarified hard and reseeded in late autumn, then used iron sulphate a month or so ago and raked up the blackened moss.

There's a lot less moss now and only slightly thin in places.

I think soon I'll use some sort of feed seed and weed product.

I'm considering also getting a hollow tine aerator, its clay soil that I'd say looks pretty compacted, it's also a fairly shaded lawn but does get sun some of the day.

Is the aerator the right thing to do? Wondering since no-one has mentioned it in all the moss talk.

Evanivitch

15,996 posts

109 months

Saturday 18th March
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I have a mole that is consistently creating a single mole.hill on the middle of my small well kept lawn. It's a great source of seed mix but I don't know how much longer it can go on as there's not a lot of open ground elsewhere nearby. My garden and surrounding gardens are all on multiple different levels. But I guess it found it's way there, somehow.

Howitzer

2,790 posts

203 months

Sunday 19th March
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I had to attack our back garden at the start of March. I work away and you couldn’t walk in the garden without being caked in a very clay like mud. With 2 dogs and 3 ducks it took a hammering over winter. Carpets of loss and duck pooh due to not being able to wash the stuff back into the soil.

So on March 4th I………

Scarified as best I could with a rake. One I had ordered never turned up and none available locally. I removed 6 rubble buckets of matted moss, dead grass and duck pooh.

I then scarified a bit more and levelled out the low points with compost.

Seeded the whole area with some kind of tough grass (I forget the name at the minute) and then covered over with more compost and then flattened by hand. It was not a fun day.

Then we had all the frost, it was worth it to try and get a start as otherwise we wouldn’t be able to go in the garden till the end of May.

First scarify….


Compost top layer the morning after….


2 weeks after starting….


I’m surprised there is anything growing so very pleased currently. Hoping for a few sunny days and a bit of progress before doing it again in May when hopefully there is a bit of a base to work from.

Is watering it with duck pond pooh water worthwhile ? I’ve been told it’s a great fertiliser but am worried the ground will have too much maybe ?

Normally our grass has been naturally great, this is the first time in 10 years I’ve had to put any real effort in.

Dave!


Edited by Howitzer on Sunday 19th March 10:31

S6PNJ

4,913 posts

268 months

Sunday 19th March
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On the subject of scarifying and moss removal, having just read the last few posts, I think I'm going to go for the 'kill with chemicals first' method then scarify once the moss has blackened. I bought Ferrous Sulphate from here a while back but never got around to using it, so I have about 25Kg say waiting for me, ready to go. https://mistralni.co.uk/products/iron-sulphate-fer...

One thing that concerns me from their website is:

website said:
When treating lawns with ferrous sulphate keep pets off the surface for at least one week. This protects their well-being and prevents transfer of residues onto hard surfaces (i.e. brown staining).
I'm less concerned about any potential staining but a week for keeping pets off??? We have a cat and he's on it every day - no way could we keep him inside for a week and there is no realistic way of keeping him off the grass. Any thoughts / comments / suggestions?

Condi

15,281 posts

158 months

Sunday 19th March
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The problem is his feet will have essentially rust on them, which then transfers to carpets, furnishings etc when wet and doesn't come off easily. Best idea would be to wash his feet when he comes back in the house for the first couple of days at least. After that it's probably fine. Less of an issue if the weather is dry.

Dr Mike Oxgreen

3,931 posts

152 months

Sunday 19th March
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Condi said:
Best idea would be to wash his feet when he comes back in the house for the first couple of days at least
… And please, please post a video of the attempt to wash a cat’s feet! hehe

FWIW, I regularly spray ferrous sulphate, albeit at lower green-up rate rather the stronger moss-killing rate, and I’ve never noticed our two cats bringing in any staining.

S6PNJ

4,913 posts

268 months

Sunday 19th March
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Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Condi said:
Best idea would be to wash his feet when he comes back in the house for the first couple of days at least
… And please, please post a video of the attempt to wash a cat’s feet! hehe
Could I let our cat do it himself perhaps?

dhutch

Original Poster:

12,418 posts

184 months

Sunday 19th March
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We have two dogs, never had any issues with rusty paw prints.

I keep them off while actually applying it, usually applied on a dry day (so I don't get wet mainly) and we have a bit of note very smart paved patio between the grass and the back door.

But yes, i think they are just being extremely cautious.

colin79666

1,596 posts

100 months

Sunday 19th March
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Any tips on dealing with clover? “Lawn” seems to be as much clover as it is grass.

Lawn is going to get its first cut of the year this afternoon as it has been growing quite a bit and it has finally stopped raining. Moved in last year and plan to tackle the garden over the next couple of months.

dhutch

Original Poster:

12,418 posts

184 months

Sunday 19th March
quotequote all
So clover can be a good thing for nitrogen, there are small leaf varieties I believe too.

But any broadleaf 'Lawn' weedkiller should remove it.

There are basically two brands, you can alternate and either apply to the whole lawn, or spray selectively.

https://www.lawnsmith.co.uk/lawn-weed-killer

RichB

49,086 posts

271 months

Sunday 19th March
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One tip for clover is to add a drop of washing up liquid to the weed killer. Clover leaves are hydrophobic (water just runs off) so the detergent will help it stick to the leaves.

colin79666

1,596 posts

100 months

Sunday 19th March
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Thanks both. Will take a look in the local hardware shop/garden centre for something to attack it with. It will never be an award winning lawn but will be nice to get it into a better shape.

ToastMan76

477 posts

60 months

Sunday 19th March
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Succumbed to temptation, gave the lawn a cut on the second setting to really bring the height of the grass down. There was much more moss than I thought, so done a green scarify as last treatments didnt work effectively only killing some moss. Pulled up a good chunk and then did a whole lawn treatment to get to the deeper moss that may have survived from the longer grass. Will see how it goes over this week, or if I need some stronger stuff!

Luckily the back seems to have avoided the moss issue (maybe from being slightly better ground and enclosed so wasnt burned in the sun last year) and havent needed to cut it just yet. Was hoping to start on digging and turning the clay to loam, but my compost is nowhere near ready so going to have to buy some, job for two weeks time now!


Turn7

22,139 posts

208 months

Sunday 19th March
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What’s the best feed and weed for a new lawn that was turf laid late Autumn last year?

I’d like to also try and improve the soil condition as I don’t think it’s great in both texture and fertility.

The lawn had quite hard die back over winter but is improving to the point of needing a mow as soon as the grounds dry enougj.

Dr Mike Oxgreen

3,931 posts

152 months

colin79666 said:
Any tips on dealing with clover? “Lawn” seems to be as much clover as it is grass.

Lawn is going to get its first cut of the year this afternoon as it has been growing quite a bit and it has finally stopped raining. Moved in last year and plan to tackle the garden over the next couple of months.
Clover can be difficult to get rid of. Persistence is required; I don’t find any weedkiller gets rid of it in one hit.

Once you have got rid, treat the cause. Clover dominates in conditions of nitrogen scarcity in the soil, because it has the ability to extract nitrogen from the air - most plants can only get nitrogen from the soil - and this gives clover a competitive advantage when soil-based nitrogen is in short supply. However, you can guarantee that this process is less efficient than getting nitrogen from the soil (otherwise all plants would do it), so if you improve the availability of soil-based nitrogen you will tilt the competitive advantage back towards the grass, which gets its nitrogen the conventional (and more efficient) way.

So you need to feed your lawn more than you are at the moment. With the weather seeming to be warming up, you can use a spring/summer feed now and this will be high in nitrogen. And then keep feeding at least every 8 weeks throughout the summer until early autumn, when ideally you would switch to a feed designed for autumn and winter (which should have a lot less nitrogen, because the grass growth will be slowing down).

Simpo Two

81,665 posts

252 months

Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Once you have got rid, treat the cause. Clover dominates in conditions of nitrogen scarcity in the soil, because it has the ability to extract nitrogen from the air - most plants can only get nitrogen from the soil - and this gives clover a competitive advantage when soil-based nitrogen is in short supply. However, you can guarantee that this process is less efficient than getting nitrogen from the soil (otherwise all plants would do it), so if you improve the availability of soil-based nitrogen you will tilt the competitive advantage back towards the grass, which gets its nitrogen the conventional (and more efficient) way.

So you need to feed your lawn more than you are at the moment. With the weather seeming to be warming up, you can use a spring/summer feed now and this will be high in nitrogen. And then keep feeding at least every 8 weeks throughout the summer until early autumn, when ideally you would switch to a feed designed for autumn and winter (which should have a lot less nitrogen, because the grass growth will be slowing down).
I just wanted to remove an image of clover sucking nitrogen from the air through its leaves and point out that it's done by specialised bacteria in root nodules.

Yes, you can use a weedkiller to kill the clover and then use fertiliser to add nitrogen, but why not just let the clover do its work naturally. When the soil fertility is better the clover will naturally fizzle out because it no longer has a competitive advantage. One year when I had lots of clover I killed it off and got bare patches instead. Now the only lawn weed I bother with is dandelions, the rest can live in peace unless they get really bad - daisies like my lawn for reason, but I'm not averse to seeing daisy flowers.

I_Am_Machine

26 posts

18 months

Got an order in for feet and seed from lawnsmith, but need the weather to dry up a bit here in Derby before I get stuck in. Might risk a cut this week and some aerating but it's too wet to start raking the moss out I feel. Probably not surprising considering we were building snowmen last weekend

Dr Mike Oxgreen

3,931 posts

152 months

Simpo Two said:
I just wanted to remove an image of clover sucking nitrogen from the air through its leaves and point out that it's done by specialised bacteria in root nodules.
Yes, that’s correct - I omitted that detail for brevity.

But it is atmospheric nitrogen that’s being fixed, even though it’s happening below ground - it’s not coming from the soil per se.

Harry Flashman

17,941 posts

229 months

Simpo Two said:
I just wanted to remove an image of clover sucking nitrogen from the air through its leaves and point out that it's done by specialised bacteria in root nodules.

Yes, you can use a weedkiller to kill the clover and then use fertiliser to add nitrogen, but why not just let the clover do its work naturally. When the soil fertility is better the clover will naturally fizzle out because it no longer has a competitive advantage. One year when I had lots of clover I killed it off and got bare patches instead. Now the only lawn weed I bother with is dandelions, the rest can live in peace unless they get really bad - daisies like my lawn for reason, but I'm not averse to seeing daisy flowers.
I too let the clover do its thing. The flowers look good in summer too.