Westfield v6

Really impressive build! - Thank you and keep them coming!

Pipe dream has been to put a V6 or V8 into a Westfield or something along those lines, life has dictated otherwise for now, but being a Scot as well I might ask to come and just stare at your car!

+1 Stunning!!

Pretty much what I thought you’d say

How long have you been in the WSCC for? I was very active, under a different name until around 10 years ago, when the chairman changed to somebody I did not get along with, indeed most of the club didn’t at that time

Im no longer a member anymore, was between 2017 and 2022, I expressed an alternative opinion to one of the comittee on there when the factory administration was ongoing and it didnt go down well, rather than make any more fuss i just left. Its a great club with some fantastic people that know these things inside and out, but sadly the comittee that run it seems, from the outside anyway, very cliquey, same people recycled into different roles.

into winter 2020 and not being able to sit on my hands, I embarked on a mini project to try and utilise 2 sets of triumph throttle bodies instead of the ford inlet. Its the 1 part of the car that i feels lacks character, the induction noise. These bodies are incredibly cheap, i think i paid under 50 quid for 2 sets. They are effectively just the butterflies, leaving the injectors in their stock locations.



Paul from mofast took on the design work and quickly had modelled up some adapters.



And i bought a cheap 3d printer to have a go at some prototyping.







once I knew theyd fit I swapped the filament to something that would take the heat.



Was at this point i started to look at the linkages, with the banks being offset its tricky. I ended up with a twin cable setup.





The cable setup did work to a fashion, however, the adjustment was a nightmare, breathing on one side knocked it out of sync, so decided this was a project that needed a little more thinking through to achieve reliability, so it was shelved for the time being.

Spring 21 was here, so after all the usual fiddling about it ended up back where it started, albeit with a new slightly smaller air filter.



then after a couple of runs out i noted a few dribbles of coolant on the garage floor, bugger it was the rad weeping. The manufacturer took it back and sent out a replacement FOC.



June saw the car on track for the first time at a club day at the Kames sprint circuit, nice little place, we had it to ourselves for the day so really relaxed day. Car felt great although the michelin ps3s did struggle after a few laps as it was a pretty abrasive surface.







Now remember the bit where I said about the oil usage, well, on the last run of the day I got a bit brave on the brakes, the oil pressure plummeted and the dash alarm was going nuts, it recovered but was lower than usual. I had a spare litre with me and that only just brought it up onto the dipstick. another litre needed on the way home. Balls. It was always a gamble engine.

With spring/summer here, the last thing i wanted is to be off the road whilst i made up my mind to rebuild or not, so a pal who uses this engine in his kit had a spare that he could sell me, this had a bit more history and had proof of lowish (80 odd thousand) miles. So i went for that. I also spoke to rocketeer about the oil surge issue and they had an updated sump baffle with gates in to prevent oil surge which was duly bought and fitted.

Old one out



'new' engine



A very quick spruce up.



Sump baffle





And back in and running fine

I see you have met Graham ‘Windy’ Millar, a stalwart of the club when I was a member.

Hmmm earlier in this very enjoyable thread you posted

Now it all depends on how you count engines

So first engine (unknown condition retired with an Oliver Reed thirst for oil) - can't see how that's your fault

Second engine 80K miles - modified sump to help with oil starvation on track

Is the rebuilt engine the third in which case all good but I have a feeling there is a twist you are going to reveal

My much loved Senator 3.0 24V had two engines and my Monza had two engines (one of which was originally in the Senator)

Original one developed a thirst for oil after a manual conversion and some enthusiastic track work as well as hard road miles

Threw a secondhand lump in it which turned out to be a bit of a dog (understatement of the year but I only Paid £100 for it)

Decided to rebuild the original myself - with some machining work carried out by a local engine shop - first ever car engine rebuild (it's only nuts and bolts right - I had rebuilt a few motorcycle engines in the past)

I subsequently found the machinist didn't do a very good job and clearances were a bit tight for a track engine - after a 1000 miles running in on the road I picked up a couple of big end shell trashed the crank and a couple of rods - I tore all the best bits out of the car and scrapped the shell

I rebuilt it again - this time with ported head, re-profiiled cams (and eventually triple 40 sidedrafts) and it ended up in my Monza GSE as a performance upgrade - then at the end of the running in period on the first track day I did with it it spun another shell due to a non functioning oil cooler and as it was already on max undersize shells I had to find another crank on std size to use - I broke 3 other engines before I found a std size crank and rebuilt it with motorsports shells.

Still got that engine - it's done a lot of road and track miles (it rev'd happily to 8000 rpm) and it's over due a rebuild again - it will get another crank but I will increase the displacement and stop searching for peak power at higher rpms and go for fat torque and 6500 rpm limit

So like I said it depends on how you count engines

Winter 21/22, so some other planned improvements were needing sorted.

First thing was the fuel level sender, this had driven me nuts since day one, the readings were all over the place, you'd get random low level warnings and the next second it'd be half full. I ended up just working on the premise that a tank was a safe 200 mile range (of road use). The sensor was a VDO dip tube, invstigating why it was crap revealed its because its effectively a single wire sender with it earthing through the tank, which subsequently earths to the chassis. The AIM dash is incredibly sensitive to electrical noise, and so the earth through the chassis rather than a dedicated earth back to the dash was messing with its head. So the sender unit was replaced with one for a boat that had a dedicated ground rather than through its body, a cheap fix and one that works!



Another fuel related issue was filling it up, with the filler on the back panel it was a pig to fill, constantly shutting it off the pump and sploshing out of the back. I had swayed between putting the filler on the top panel during build but ended up with it in the standard location. So removed the filler cap and the riv nuts and 3d printed a blank filler piece which was bonded in.





And then covered with a new badge, you can actually see here the spilling of fuel during filling had cracked the fog light housing. Filler fitted up top, and 100% easier to fill up now. Anooyed as its a bit of a bodge, but it needed sorting.



Ive never really been a fan of the rear light pods carbon effect finish, so these were removed and painted gloss black.





And then as im a right wheel slut, a new style of TD prorace wheels were on offer at the factory in a decent offset which meany i could lose the big spacers off the back.