2006 Mazda MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport
Discussion
geraintthomas said:
that includes going to the track as standard too.
Good plan! I've enjoyed seeing how each change has altered the way the car behaves on track, I think it's much more rewarding then throwing all the bits the internet tells you you need at it and having nothing to compare it to.
snotrag said:
Enjoy 
ETA - Black ones look absolutely ace when the Paintwork has had a good seeing too - its very easy to work with to, even given the massive amount of swirls in your pictures you'll be impressed how good you can get it looking with a few hours or cutting and polishing.
That's relieving to know! Porsche paint is so soft that it was a nightmare to work with.ETA - Black ones look absolutely ace when the Paintwork has had a good seeing too - its very easy to work with to, even given the massive amount of swirls in your pictures you'll be impressed how good you can get it looking with a few hours or cutting and polishing.
Edited by snotrag on Tuesday 18th August 12:40
Accelebrate said:
Good plan! I've enjoyed seeing how each change has altered the way the car behaves on track, I think it's much more rewarding then throwing all the bits the internet tells you you need at it and having nothing to compare it to.
Absolutely. Really looking forward to that. How did you find it on the track when standard? geraintthomas said:
Absolutely. Really looking forward to that. How did you find it on the track when standard?
The body-roll was amusing... 
...but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
Beautiful car, with lots of potential.
Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
Accelebrate said:
The body-roll was amusing...
...but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
I think it'll be the same when I get on track. I'll see if I can get an instructor with me too. I would think that driver tuition would be far more rewarding than any upgrade on the car....but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
Volcanic said:
Beautiful car, with lots of potential.
Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
You'll have to tell me that story...Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
I was hoping to do the opposite and progress from my 2010 2.0 Sport Tech to an early 2000s Boxster S..... I love the MX5 but I only bought it as a stop gap and some cheap motoring after owning a a right lemon of a Golf R (blown engine and DSG box) that cost me thousands in repairs.
Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
toby-w8jtf said:
I was hoping to do the opposite and progress from my 2010 2.0 Sport Tech to an early 2000s Boxster S..... I love the MX5 but I only bought it as a stop gap and some cheap motoring after owning a a right lemon of a Golf R (blown engine and DSG box) that cost me thousands in repairs.
Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
Initially, you won't regret it. The sound and the power will be enough to keep you going for a while. But then you'll realise the maintenance costs (even doing everything yourself), and the fact you have to be so damn careful of which parts you buy. Plus there's Porsche paranoia. It was a beautiful car but I couldn't have as much fun as I could in my Celica, was constantly worrying.Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
The MX-5 is a dream to handle in comparison. Don't switch, give your 5 more power.
Accelebrate said:
The body-roll was amusing...
...but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
Body roll you say, I raise you Cadwell Park on aforementioned Sachs shocks and springs! This is before I made some modifications to mine! ...but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
Had my first big problem in the car last night, and was wondering when it would happen.
You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 19th August 11:45
geraintthomas said:
Had my first big problem in the car last night, and was wondering when it would happen.
You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
Can’t link to my thread, but it’s on Page 2 of readers cars. My honest opinion, having discussed rebuilding the caliper (incidentally also front left) it’s not a permanent fix and it will happen again. The new caliper, is an updated part with a bigger aperture for the slider which basically gets corroded and sticks on these. As you note new caliper is £80. It really transforms the car with no binding, so definitely worth it as they are great little cars. You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 19th August 11:45
Geraint - I''m on my 4th MX-5 All have suffered from seized calipers at points in their lifes.
In the past I used to prat about for hours rebuilding them, fitting seals etc.
I am always loathe to spend any money and stilldo pretty much everything myself, however in the case of brake calipers - just buy a new/recon one.
Honestly, its not worth the hassle. They are cheap.
FWIW I got a Pagid Recon caliper for my NC about 3 months ago on exchange for £35 from my local factors. Add in a slider/seal kit for about £5 and your golden. You also end up with a lovely finished, shiny, clean brake, rather than a grotty one with new seals.
In the past I used to prat about for hours rebuilding them, fitting seals etc.
I am always loathe to spend any money and stilldo pretty much everything myself, however in the case of brake calipers - just buy a new/recon one.
Honestly, its not worth the hassle. They are cheap.
FWIW I got a Pagid Recon caliper for my NC about 3 months ago on exchange for £35 from my local factors. Add in a slider/seal kit for about £5 and your golden. You also end up with a lovely finished, shiny, clean brake, rather than a grotty one with new seals.
£35? I can't find one for under £80. For £35 I'd do it. It's £80 on ebay, or a hell of a lot more expensive on EuroCarParts for a Pagid. Where did you find it?
I do see what you mean. At the moment, it's the difference between £18 for new seals, boots and a brand new piston, or £80 for a recon (if it is indeed £80). I have a flap wheel for my dremel, wire brushes and sandpaper which would clean out and polish the internals of the piston chamber, ready for a new one. This with new boots should technically last.
But... I really do see the sense in just buying a new caliper and calling a day, especially if you say they're improved. You're probably right with how it's the best option to go down, but I wouldn't mind attempting a rebuild first. Mainly for the satisfaction and challenge as I've not done one before and always want to learn new things with mechanics, secondly for the very low price (£18 vs £80). If it doesn't last then I know I'll need new calipers in the future if/when the others go, and it's only cost £18 for an attempt.
I think for the price and the experience of doing it, it's worth a try at least once. Then when it fails you can say you told me so...
I do see what you mean. At the moment, it's the difference between £18 for new seals, boots and a brand new piston, or £80 for a recon (if it is indeed £80). I have a flap wheel for my dremel, wire brushes and sandpaper which would clean out and polish the internals of the piston chamber, ready for a new one. This with new boots should technically last.
But... I really do see the sense in just buying a new caliper and calling a day, especially if you say they're improved. You're probably right with how it's the best option to go down, but I wouldn't mind attempting a rebuild first. Mainly for the satisfaction and challenge as I've not done one before and always want to learn new things with mechanics, secondly for the very low price (£18 vs £80). If it doesn't last then I know I'll need new calipers in the future if/when the others go, and it's only cost £18 for an attempt.
I think for the price and the experience of doing it, it's worth a try at least once. Then when it fails you can say you told me so...
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 19th August 12:31
Great to hear, gives me a sense of relief that new calipers last. I'm going to assume that all of mine will eventually need replacing and I'll most likely replace the whole caliper for a shiny new one as previously mentioned by others.
For now though, I've ordered the rebuild kit. Been wanting to tackle a caliper rebuild for a while and this seems to be a perfect opportunity. If it goes tits up, I'll get a new caliper and will then on for any other brakes on the MX-5 that fail. But for now, I fancy tackling a the rebuild. The plan is to strip the caliper, remove the old seals and piston, tackle the inside of the piston pot with a mini wire brush and sand paper, along with a flap wheel on the dremel for any other stubborn parts. I'll use a tube/pipe wire brush for the slider holes, ensuring they're rust free and smooth. Once everything's clean, I'll use the new piston, seals and grease to build the caliper back up.
It could last years, or it may not get through the winter. Either way, it's a nice learning experience.
For now though, I've ordered the rebuild kit. Been wanting to tackle a caliper rebuild for a while and this seems to be a perfect opportunity. If it goes tits up, I'll get a new caliper and will then on for any other brakes on the MX-5 that fail. But for now, I fancy tackling a the rebuild. The plan is to strip the caliper, remove the old seals and piston, tackle the inside of the piston pot with a mini wire brush and sand paper, along with a flap wheel on the dremel for any other stubborn parts. I'll use a tube/pipe wire brush for the slider holes, ensuring they're rust free and smooth. Once everything's clean, I'll use the new piston, seals and grease to build the caliper back up.
It could last years, or it may not get through the winter. Either way, it's a nice learning experience.
Podie said:
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses... sticky calliper is a disappointment so soon - but looks like a lot of promise!
It is a little bit, but not towards the car itself, only towards the fact I can't drive it until the kit comes. It's understandable though, it's an original Mazda caliper which is 14 years old, and most likely not driven that hard in a long time. I say this as I tried to drive it hard with the high front end and the un-aligned setup, and it was quite scary. At least pushing the car has shown any weak points, and a sticky caliper isn't a big one.geraintthomas said:
One good thing though, there's been torrential rain in the past few days and the car is completely watertight. No water in the cabin, floors, boot, roof doesn't leak, and no condensation. I'm amazed.
Decent result. Check out https://www.renovointernational.com/ for the soft top - I used it on TVRs for the last decade and it's great.Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff