future new owner questions
Discussion
from me, simply the best and only available on the small boot CV8, not the VXR.
Hello people's . So I drove the yellow one today.
It's defo a brute of a car, so different for all the big power jap stuff I've had
So questions .
Ls7 clutch. It got one last year, but it's bite is right at the top of the pedal, is this how they are/adjustable?
It's had a rear diff, but the rear is noisy (not majorly) but it could be down to simitomoto tyres on it . Any thoughts
The temp gauge only goes up to about a third. Is this normal
Lastly on bumps especially slow bump corners there a a fairly loud knock from the bottom of suspension, it there something comon? And how easy would these parts be to get
What wheel options would I have to go over the AP brakes?
Thanks
Pete
It's defo a brute of a car, so different for all the big power jap stuff I've had
So questions .
Ls7 clutch. It got one last year, but it's bite is right at the top of the pedal, is this how they are/adjustable?
It's had a rear diff, but the rear is noisy (not majorly) but it could be down to simitomoto tyres on it . Any thoughts
The temp gauge only goes up to about a third. Is this normal
Lastly on bumps especially slow bump corners there a a fairly loud knock from the bottom of suspension, it there something comon? And how easy would these parts be to get
What wheel options would I have to go over the AP brakes?
Thanks
Pete
So questions .
Ls7 clutch. It got one last year, but it's bite is right at the top of the pedal, is this how they are/adjustable?
-Don't know. Call one of the major players and ask. AAS in Newcastle are very helpful and would be happy to answer a quick question. They've done lots of work to mine inc. the LS7 clutch.
It's had a rear diff, but the rear is noisy (not majorly) but it could be down to simitomoto tyres on it . Any thoughts?
-The general drive train of the Monaro is pretty basic and agricultural, the rear end is known for being a bit clunky and noisy.
It might be improved with an oil change, a hot topic really. Many clever owners have discovered a Castrol oil for it and maybe some friction modifier.
The tyres might not help. IMO and many others here Pilot Sport 4s are the best for these cars.
The temp gauge only goes up to about a third. Is this normal
-Yes, mine sits roughly as you described, maybe just a tad higher than 1/3rd.
Lastly on bumps especially slow bump corners there a a fairly loud knock from the bottom of suspension, it there something common? And how easy would these parts be to get?
-Suspension is dead simply and parts are readily available, mostly if not all available from Pedders UK. Reasonable prices too.
The noise could simply be drop links, or bottom arm ball joint.
What wheel options would I have to go over the AP brakes?
-The wheel options for these cars is limited due to offsets etc.. You will generally need a 19" wheel, although the stock OEM 18" fit. You could source some Monaro 19" VXR wheels or look aftermarket, but be careful with fitment.
Check my Forum profile and see my car. I fitted some quality 19" BBS wheels (99% stock fitment) as my VXR wheels were cracked.
Thanks.
Pete
fred bloggs said:
There is a 2003 chevrolet lumina (four door ) with 466 bhp on ebay, Its an auto though.
The Wife wants a smaller, more fuel economical replacement for her V8 Grand Cherokee, which itself was supposed to be a smaller, more fuel economical replacement for her Jaguar XJ
In my mind that silver Lumina would be ideal as she used to love her old 2.6 Omega, of which the Lumina / Commadore shared the same, (but wider) platform.
May I ask, what are your thoughts on it? It looks to have had quite a lot of money spent on it and quite a lot of mods done to it.
The more I read the advert, the more it looks like a bloody bargain !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234843215048?mkcid=16&a...
pistolpete12 said:
Most things in five with. The only thing holding be back at the moment it's clutch bite.
It wasn't right at top of pedal but felt close to top on of pedal. I've never driven another. So this might be it's normal bite location.. ??
New LS7 clutches are not overly expensive, although other work you might also do at the same time as a change could bump the price up. The job itself is not difficult at all, again, its a simple beast. AAS make easy work of the replacement.It wasn't right at top of pedal but felt close to top on of pedal. I've never driven another. So this might be it's normal bite location.. ??
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=469579...
^^^ This is the LS7 clutch kit.
In terms of the yellow car, what was the underside like? And did you clear up the mileage discrepancy and ask about the advisories?
I suppose the advice should always be to look at more than one as well, can sometimes then make it dead obvious when you've seen a good one.
I looked at a few both times. My experience was many are not overly looked after and are a little scruffy. They still wanted top money though. The car I bought was also a little like this, but it was priced better. So I bought this 'cheaper' one and put it right.
105.4 said:
I’ve been getting very, very itchy fingers about that one, (the silver one?), as it’s been up on eBay for a while now. Unfortunately, (or maybe fortunately?) I’ve been that bloody busy with work over the last 3-4 months I haven’t had the time for car shopping.
May I ask, what are your thoughts on it? It looks to have had quite a lot of money spent on it and quite a lot of mods done to it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234843215048?mkcid=16&a...
My thoughts.May I ask, what are your thoughts on it? It looks to have had quite a lot of money spent on it and quite a lot of mods done to it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234843215048?mkcid=16&a...
In terms of engine work done, the 6 speed auto and other bits the car is well worth the money assuming in the flesh it is all clean, tidy, not rotten and it all works properly.
The engine spec is very good, its a relatively mild cam so should have good manners and its also had all the supporting mods. I'd say that engine is probably worth £6k on its own.
The advert reads very well, its worth noting that he's had it advertised for less too, so I would be offering less.
I'd toyed with the idea of buying it (aiming for £10k), doing a straight engine swap into my 5.7 VXR and then selling the Lumina on again for something like £7k. I'd guess this would be cheaper than have the same engine work done to mine.
Be brave, go and have a look!
Lincsls1 said:
New LS7 clutches are not overly expensive, although other work you might also do at the same time as a change could bump the price up. The job itself is not difficult at all, again, its a simple beast. AAS make easy work of the replacement.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=469579...
^^^ This is the LS7 clutch kit.
In terms of the yellow car, what was the underside like? And did you clear up the mileage discrepancy and ask about the advisories?
I suppose the advice should always be to look at more than one as well, can sometimes then make it dead obvious when you've seen a good one.
I looked at a few both times. My experience was many are not overly looked after and are a little scruffy. They still wanted top money though. The car I bought was also a little like this, but it was priced better. So I bought this 'cheaper' one and put it right.
Cool I do all my own work and that's not silly money, he did have rear main seal done at the same timehttps://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=469579...
^^^ This is the LS7 clutch kit.
In terms of the yellow car, what was the underside like? And did you clear up the mileage discrepancy and ask about the advisories?
I suppose the advice should always be to look at more than one as well, can sometimes then make it dead obvious when you've seen a good one.
I looked at a few both times. My experience was many are not overly looked after and are a little scruffy. They still wanted top money though. The car I bought was also a little like this, but it was priced better. So I bought this 'cheaper' one and put it right.
Mileage is fine.. Its from when he first put advert up, the car is at 80k so no discrepancies.
Underneath and front rails all look immaculate found no rust
All works been done by a monaro guy in gillingham
Its been well looked after, but also well driven.. But that normal for this type of car
He knows bits needs doi g hence why it's a bit cheaper that any others
Mot stuff is mainly suspension. Which I think needs doing...
Edited by pistolpete12 on Sunday 8th January 13:10
Ahh Gillingham will be Neil Johnson (I think it is, N W J anyway)
He's on the facebook groups and may even still be on PH, username here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp?h=...
Ask him about the car if you want a second opinion, to be honest if it's been there it's been in competent hands at least. It sounds like a bit of a bargain, the suspension stuff is cheap and easy to do, the clutch is cheap and easy to do (although the gearbox is heavy which makes it a bit awkward laying on your back!)
Get a set of Pedders low springs and their 'sports ryder' (or some similar name) dampers. Maybe put on their rear anti roll bar whilst you're in there and you'll have a very sweetly set-up road biased Monaro that still rides comfortably but is a nice improvement over stock.
He's on the facebook groups and may even still be on PH, username here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp?h=...
Ask him about the car if you want a second opinion, to be honest if it's been there it's been in competent hands at least. It sounds like a bit of a bargain, the suspension stuff is cheap and easy to do, the clutch is cheap and easy to do (although the gearbox is heavy which makes it a bit awkward laying on your back!)
Get a set of Pedders low springs and their 'sports ryder' (or some similar name) dampers. Maybe put on their rear anti roll bar whilst you're in there and you'll have a very sweetly set-up road biased Monaro that still rides comfortably but is a nice improvement over stock.
Edited by SturdyHSV on Monday 9th January 09:10
Id be budgeting for new tyres ,probably even before driving the yellow one.
For whatever reason they are super sensitive to tyres.
Also ,the knocking may be the exhaust hitting, but more likely front anti roll links, Mine break if I jack one side too much , I have to jack both front wheels evenly.
If removing the rear subframe, there is an alignment tool floating about, ask Dan Mugglestone on here.
For whatever reason they are super sensitive to tyres.
Also ,the knocking may be the exhaust hitting, but more likely front anti roll links, Mine break if I jack one side too much , I have to jack both front wheels evenly.
If removing the rear subframe, there is an alignment tool floating about, ask Dan Mugglestone on here.
pistolpete12 said:
Really. Why and how much. ??
Owned for 5 years now, always wanted one but I fancy a change. No doubt regret it once its gone mind!I'd be looking at around the 12k mark for mine, but with that supercharged one posted earlier in the thread for 14k its a tough market out there... Makes my 12k potentially unrealistic now (12 months prior perhaps not so much) very much a buyers market at the moment for those who sadly need to move their cars on.
its a 59k car, AP front brake kit, ripshifter, LS7 Clutch, remote bleed line.
Just recently had a fortune spent having AAS headers & sports cats fitted, and working AC thanks to some custom made new AC pipes.
Yellow car certainly looks like good value for money if solid, anything you buy will likely need a bit of work and upkeep owing to the vintage of these cars now.
SturdyHSV said:
As much as i fancy a change from mine... the prospect of a supercharged car for that price is seriously tempting.......Tomaahawk said:
Yellow car certainly looks like good value for money if solid, anything you buy will likely need a bit of work and upkeep owing to the vintage of these cars now.
Glad you said that.. I collect thursday Its solid but i expect it will need work, its a toy so going in eye open...
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